How to Take Video of the Northern Lights: A Complete Guide
Capturing a photograph of the Northern Lights is one thing, but filming their ethereal, dancing motion in real-time video is a challenge that offers an incredible reward. While photographers often use long exposures to create static images, videography requires a different approach to capture the fluid movement without it becoming a blurry mess.
Fortunately, modern mirrorless and DSLR cameras have become so powerful in low-light situations that capturing high-quality aurora video is more accessible than ever. This guide will walk you through the essential gear, core settings, and techniques you need to create breathtaking footage of the world’s greatest light show.
Essential Gear for Aurora Videography
Having the right equipment is the foundation of successful aurora videography. While you don’t need the most expensive gear on the market, a few key items are non-negotiable for dealing with the dark and cold conditions.
The Right Camera
The ideal camera for aurora video has two main features: full manual control in video mode and excellent high-ISO performance. Modern mirrorless cameras are often preferred because their electronic viewfinders can brighten the scene, making it easier to compose your shot in the dark. A full-frame sensor will generally perform better in low light and produce cleaner footage at high ISOs than a crop-sensor (APS-C) camera, but many modern crop-sensor cameras are still very capable. The ability to shoot in a ‘Log’ profile or RAW video format is a significant bonus, as it provides much greater flexibility for color grading in post-production.
Lenses: Wide and Fast
Your lens choice is arguably more important than the camera body. You need a ‘fast’ lens, which means it has a very wide maximum aperture. Look for a lens with an aperture of f/2.8 or wider (e.g., f/1.8, f/1.4). A wider aperture allows more light to hit the camera’s sensor, which is critical for video in near-total darkness. Secondly, you need a wide-angle lens, typically in the 14mm to 24mm range on a full-frame camera. This allows you to capture the vast scale of the aurora as it stretches across the sky and include some of the landscape for context and scale.
The Unshakeable Tripod
A sturdy tripod is absolutely essential. You will be using relatively slow shutter speeds, and any camera movement, even from the wind, will result in shaky, unusable footage. Don’t rely on a flimsy, lightweight travel tripod. Choose a robust model that can handle the weight of your camera and lens and remain stable in potentially windy conditions. A fluid video head is a great addition if you plan to introduce smooth panning or tilting movements, but a solid ball head will work perfectly for static shots.
Extra Batteries and Memory Cards
Cold weather is the enemy of battery life. The freezing temperatures common during aurora season can drain a fully charged battery in a fraction of the normal time. Always bring at least two or three spare batteries and keep them warm in an inside pocket of your jacket. Video files, especially 4K footage, are also enormous. Ensure you have several large, high-speed memory cards (e.g., 64GB or 128GB V60 or V90 rated cards) so you don’t run out of space during a spectacular display.
Core Camera Settings for Northern Lights Video
Balancing frame rate, shutter speed, aperture, and ISO is the key to technically sound aurora video. Unlike photography, these settings are more constrained and directly impact each other. Here’s a reliable starting point.
Frame Rate and Shutter Speed
For a cinematic look, set your frame rate to 24 frames per second (fps). To achieve natural-looking motion blur, videographers often follow the 180-degree shutter rule, which states your shutter speed should be double your frame rate. For 24fps, this would be 1/48s or 1/50s. This is a great starting point for a bright, fast-moving aurora. For a fainter, slower display, you may need to ‘break’ this rule and use a slower shutter speed like 1/30s or 1/25s to let in more light, but be aware this will create more motion blur.
Aperture (f-stop)
This is the easiest setting. You want to let in as much light as possible, so set your lens to its widest maximum aperture. If you have an f/1.8 lens, use f/1.8. If you have an f/2.8 lens, use f/2.8. This allows you to use the lowest possible ISO, which results in cleaner, less noisy footage. Some lenses are slightly soft when wide open, so you can consider stopping down by a tiny amount (e.g., from f/1.4 to f/1.6) for extra sharpness, but only if the aurora is bright enough to allow it.
ISO and White Balance
ISO controls the digital brightness of your video. With your aperture wide open and shutter speed set, ISO will be your main exposure control. Start with an ISO around 3200 or 6400 and adjust based on the aurora’s intensity. A bright, dynamic aurora might only need ISO 1600, while a faint one could require ISO 12800 or even higher. Be mindful that very high ISO values will introduce digital noise (grain). For color, do not use Auto White Balance. Set a manual Kelvin temperature, typically between 3200K and 4500K, to get a pleasing blue hour look for the night sky that renders the aurora’s green tones accurately.
Focusing in the Dark
Autofocus will not work in the dark. You must use manual focus. The best method is to find the brightest star or planet in the sky (or a very distant light on the horizon). Switch your camera to its live view mode and digitally magnify the view on that point of light. Carefully turn your lens’s focus ring until that light is as small and sharp as possible. Once you’ve nailed the focus, you can use a piece of gaffer tape to lock the focus ring in place so it doesn’t get bumped accidentally.
Quick Facts
- A camera with manual video controls and good high-ISO performance is essential.
- Use a wide-angle (14-24mm) lens with a fast aperture (f/2.8 or wider).
- A sturdy tripod is non-negotiable to prevent shaky footage.
- Start with these settings: 24fps, 1/50s shutter speed, widest aperture, and ISO 3200-6400.
- Always use manual focus; focus on a bright star using live view magnification.
- Cold drains batteries fast; bring multiple spares and keep them warm.
- Set a manual white balance (Kelvin 3200K-4500K) for accurate colors.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can I film the Northern Lights with my phone? A: Yes, modern high-end smartphones (like recent iPhones or Google Pixels) can capture decent video of a bright aurora using their night modes. However, for the best quality, you will need a dedicated app that allows manual control over ISO and shutter speed, and you must use a tripod.
Q: What’s the difference between a timelapse and a real-time video? A: A timelapse is a series of still photos taken over a period and then stitched together to show movement. It’s great for very slow-moving auroras. A real-time video captures 24 (or more) frames every second, showing the fluid, true-speed dance of a fast-moving aurora, which a timelapse cannot replicate.
Q: How do I reduce noise in my aurora video? A: The best way to reduce noise is to capture the cleanest signal possible. Use a lens with a very wide aperture (like f/1.8 or f/1.4) to keep your ISO as low as possible. In post-production, you can use dedicated video noise-reduction software like Neat Video or the tools built into DaVinci Resolve or Adobe Premiere Pro.
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